A Whey with Cheese: Not all Stiltons are created equal….or simply. PART II

Proper form. I have a great deal of admiration for the makers of Stilton; a preferred creamery in Nottingamshire would not release its Stilton, even though it was Christmas time and the Irish were out, not because we were Irish but because the cheese was too young. I like it when nature dictates to man.

This post, I should explain results from an interaction with my mother. She seemed to avoid buying cheese from me. I brought her home a block of Stilton one Christmas to discover that she had bought a quarter round somewhere else. Pints to a pub, I felt a little too late to have been of service. It was after Christmas when she unexpectedly asked me why our Stilton should be so much better or any different to hers? A reprieve, I clarified that not all Stiltons are created equal and most assuredly, not the same. There is more than one producer of Stilton and within that a range of good, particular, better to best. I shall remain quiet about my bias, but now to the creameries.

Research indicates that there are currently six creameries making Stilton Cheese. I thought I knew which Stilton was my favourite but now I am not so sure – some of the stories add charm to the cheese and clarify the lack of, or plentitude of encounters. Stilton must be made with pasteurized milk, in and from the counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire or Nottinghamshire, the cheese be unpressed and formed in a cylindrical shape, the crust natural and the blue a result of piercing and not inoculation - the remaining differences lie in the touch of the hand.

The Creameries:

Cropwell Bishop, family run, they gave up their larger enterprise, Somerset Dairies, to focus on Stilton

making in Nottinghamshire. Their milk pools comes from 16 farms. Cropwell Bishop’s Stilton was the first and only Stilton to be served on the Concorde. They recommend it trying it with honey and walnuts.

Long Clawson of Leicestershire have been all about Stilton for over a hundred years. There was a brief stint during the War when rationing, not reason, dictated that they had to make cheddar. Their milk pools comes from some 43 farms.

Tuxford & Tebbutt, also of Leicestershire with a long history of making cheese, Melton Mowbray’s pork pies, and gentlemen’s suit (does anyone see the expanding bias?). They let go of the other industries to focus on cheese making. One of the largest exporters of Stilton, it has been taken over a few times, at one stage by Milk Line, it is now owned by the very large cooperative Arla, a subsidiary on the international milk focused cooperative Arla based in Denmark.

Webster’s Dairy of Saxelbye, near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire is a small operation run by the

Webster sisters, if you were to call the creamery I think that one of them might even answer the phone. It is a small operation but it has a following and much of their cheese is gone before it even has an opportunity to rest on fair Albion’s soil. Two sisters began the business 150 years ago, there were some brothers in between and now two sisters are in charge again. Elizabeth Scarborough might smile. I would like to taste their Stilton.

Hartingdon Creamery, Pikehall – the only makers of Stilton in Derbyshire. The Long Clawson Dairy

closed down in 2009 and these Magnificent Five, two cheese makers and three cheesemongers (two businesses) are taking up the Stilton standard for their county. The business is beginning, they have experience, they need time and support while they develop their market. Does anyone want to do a cheese class with them?

Colston-Bassett, of Nottinghamshire, have been championed by Neal’s Yard as their only Stilton for the past 30 years. The cooperative was established in 1913 after a local doctor encouraged the farmers to pool their milk resources and add value to it by making cheese. Initially cheddar happened, Stilton in 1920, cheddar rationing of the war took back the cheese line but over the 1950’s the creamery turned its focus solely, thankfully back to the blues. The original 16 farms have been consolidated into 4, but it is the same land, the curds are still hand ladled and the cheese is terrific.

Hints may have happened but it could be fun, and an accomplishment, to line them up side by side, each bought as choice samples of that creamery, and try them with friends. What sweet dreams would follow?

Recipes:
Heston Blumenthal’s, Stilton on Chocolate Biscuits with Port Reduction

Pork Chops, Proscuitto and Stilton with Jamie Oliver

Eccles Cakes and Potted Stilton (Heston Blumenthal)

Tartine, with or out without pears.

Stilton Pairing:
Port, the majority write Ruby some say Tawny
Sherry, Amontillado is more commonly praised but some staunch defensives for Olorosso