Let’s not be too precious…

Let us not be too precious about things. They go to waste, they break, they seemingly miss their moment

(Kintsukoroi)

they are missed, or mistakingly opened, they spoil, they happen, they are no longer here.
When did you have them? What was it like? What are you like?

I brought home a sliver of a ripe Langres. A washed rind cheese, it has the texture of clotted cream

with addition of self settled curd resistance. The cheese was so delicate and rich that a sliver was all that was left of the tastings and the tower of Langres that had been behind it that day. I brought it home and was skipping through recipe books. The Langres was waiting for its fate when I surprised both it and myself by popping it on a cracker and into the oven for a minute, and then into my mouth. Amuse bouche, amuse gueule, amused fate.

Last weekend I (generously) invited a friend and myself to supper at my mother’s home. He went to pains and displayed ingenuity to twice decant the wine he brought; he only looked at the main course when he settle the readied bottle near the warmed

plates. Tuna and Brunello di Montalcino anyone? At least the tuna was fresh but Brunello is a stud thoroughbred of the Tuscan wine world. My friend just found out he had entered his horse into a beach ride. The gesture was generous; the wine dry and rich, its restrained presence like a withholding but near friendly handshake from an aristocrat. Perhaps it was not the best moment for a Brunello but it was a great one for me.

Montalcino, Tuscany

I don’t know if I believe in special occasions or perfect moments. I do believe that we make occasions special and that if we wait for the right moment, there will almost always be factors that supersede the gift that you are bringing to it. Judge Roy Bean (aka blue eyed Paul Newman) buys his lover the music box she once asked for but arrives with it to find her on her deathbed- not to be dramatic or anything. Our gestures are never lost though their meaning might become a contributory to, rather than the whole.

Don’t make too much of the thing, it has been said that when Louis XVI was fleeing Paris for Austria with Marie Antoinette and family, he delayed to stop for some wine and a piece of Brie de Meaux (French legends, I add). This hunger, together with the accurate likeness of the king upon the 50 livre assignat allowed time and opportunity for him to be recognised, caught, brought back to Paris and duly guillotined. Perhaps he should have skipped lunch.

What follows are some recipes that show no awe for their ingredients, just understanding and appreciation.

My decadent Aunt occasionally makes a, 'She loves this guest' Veal and Mushroom dish and uses Delamain Cognac. This was the closest I could find to her recipe – that is from Martha Stewart makes me laugh.

  

Two separate acquaintances (who in their moment of sharing nearly become untrustworthy) spoke of Appenzeller Cheese as a topping for their pizza. Strong and scented and a little expensive, I doubted their rational and their taste. Now I just question my imagination.

By all means, trade around the ingredients for Heston Blumen-No-Budget’s recipe, but Macaroni and Cheese can be elegant, not just comfort food. Thank you Heston. Apologies if I have mentioned this before, I like it that much.

Finally, Remember our Latin forebears…. They have beautiful cheese, they make beautiful things with it and sometimes they just eat it. Parmigiano-Reggiano, Taleggio, Mozzarella di Bufala, they are all able to stand by themselves but each are also such excellent companions and company. Parmigiano-Reggiano on pastas always but also on a cheese boards, maybe with honey or a balsamic reduction. Taleggio or taleggio on polenta crust (from Ottolenghi). Mozzarella di Bufala with salt, graduate to Caprese or squished into a rubbed garlic toastie.

Precious but not...